After weeks (okay, months) of falling down internet rabbit holes and grilling every travel forum I could find, I’m finally set to see Kanas the “Switzerland of China” tucked away in Xinjiang’s Altai Mountains. I haven’t been yet, but if you’re also dreaming of turquoise lakes and golden forests, I want to share everything I’ve learned in the planning trenches. Here’s the real scoop: what’s amazing, what’s tricky, and how to make this trip actually happen.
Why Kanas Made My Bucket List
I stumbled across Kanas while looking for wild places in China—think crystal lakes, untouched forests, and a bit of mystery (yes, there’s a local legend about a lake monster). Every photo looked unreal, and every traveler said the same thing: this place is hard to reach, but totally worth it. If you love nature, hiking, and places that aren’t overrun with tourists, Kanas seems like a dream.
What I’m Most Excited For
- Kanas Lake: The main attraction. Apparently, the water changes color depending on the light and season. I plan to hike up to the Fish Viewing Pavilion for the classic panorama.
- Hemu Village: This Tuvan village looks straight out of a fairy tale. I’m hoping to wake up early for sunrise, since everyone says the morning mist is unreal.
- Wolong Bay: A turquoise river bend that’s a photographer’s paradise. I marked it for a sunrise visit to dodge the crowds.
- Guanyu Pavilion: The best viewpoint for the whole region, though the climb sounds like a real workout.
- Crouching Dragon Bay: A twisty river that looks like (you guessed it) a dragon from above. I’m bringing my drone if I can get a permit.
When to Go (and Why I Chose Autumn)
After way too much weather research, I settled on September for my trip. Here’s what I found out:
- Spring (April–June): Fewer tourists, wildflowers, but trails can be muddy.
- Summer (July–August): Warm, perfect for hikes, but most crowded (and expensive).
- Autumn (September–October): The golden larch trees are stunning, and this is peak photo season. It gets chilly at night, though.
- Winter (November–March): Super cold, but magical if you’re into snow and don’t mind some places being closed.
Getting There: What No One Tells You
This was the trickiest part of planning. Kanas is remote—no easy trains, and flights can sell out fast. Here’s my plan:
- Fly to Urumqi: The main gateway city in Xinjiang. Most travelers start here.
- Fly to Kanas Airport: From Urumqi, there are daily flights (about 1.5 hours) in peak season. I booked mine months ahead after reading horror stories about sold-out flights.
- By Bus: Slow, long (10-12 hours from Urumqi), but cheapest if you’re on a budget.
- By Car: Renting a car is possible, but you need to check that your rental covers Xinjiang and be ready for bumpy roads.
Permits for Non-Chinese Travelers: This was a biggie. Foreigners need a special entry permit for the Kanas Nature Reserve—some hotels or agencies in Urumqi can arrange it, but you must ask in advance. It’s not automatic, and processing can take a couple days. Get the details here.
Where I’m Staying & What I’ll Eat
Based on reviews and travel blogs, I booked a guesthouse in Hemu Village (they fill up fast in autumn). It’s basic but has insane views. I’m ready for lamb skewers, simple noodles, and lots of milk tea—vegetarian options seem limited, so I’m packing snacks just in case.
- Hemu Village: Wooden lodges and family-run guesthouses, just like in the photos.
- Kanas Lake: More hotels, but pricier—still, some have great locations if you want to splurge.
My Packing & Prep List
- Warm clothes (layers for cold nights, even in summer)
- Sturdy hiking boots
- Portable charger (power can be spotty)
- Cash (ATMs are rare, and few places take cards)
- Translation app—English isn’t common here
- Camera & extra memory cards!
- Travel permit confirmation (plus copies)
My Sensory Prep: Tips for Fellow Travelers with Sensory Issues
Since I have some sensory sensitivities, I wanted to make sure I’d be comfortable on this adventure. I haven’t experienced these things in Kanas yet, but here’s what my research turned up that might help others in the same boat:
- 1. Pack Noise-Canceling Headphones or Earplugs: Almost every traveler mentioned that transport (especially buses and airports) can be loud and chaotic. I read that Hemu and Kanas villages are pretty peaceful, but the journey there can be overwhelming. I’m packing my best earplugs just in case.
- 2. Bring Sunglasses and a Sun Hat: The glare from the lake and snow-capped peaks is supposed to be intense, especially in autumn. A lot of people said the sunlight can be dazzling, so I’m planning to have sunglasses and a good hat handy to avoid sensory overload.
- 3. Researching Food Textures and Options: I’m a bit picky about textures, so I looked into local food. Most meals are simple—think grilled lamb, noodles, and milk tea. I’m packing some familiar snacks in case the local dishes are too unfamiliar or heavy on certain textures.
I’ll update this section after the trip with what worked (and what didn’t), but if you have sensory needs like mine, prepping ahead seems key for Kanas!
Extra Resources I’ve Bookmarked
What I Wish I Knew Sooner
Honestly? I wish someone had told me how early you need to book for autumn and how strict the permit situation is for foreigners. Also, cell service is patchy, and there’s a lot less English than in other parts of China, so prep ahead.
Ready for the Adventure
I haven’t set foot in Kanas yet, but I feel like I already know the twists and turns of the trip. If you’re planning too, I hope my research shortcut saves you some headaches. Have you been? Got tips or questions? Drop them below—I’ll update this post with what actually happens!

